Friday, 30 March 2007

Bridges, Bells and Boats

This weekend I took a trip to see the 'Bridge to Heaven' in Amanohashidate. It's not really a bridge but rather a strip of land which joins two sides a the bay. In order to appreciate the 'bridge' effect the prescribed viewing method is like so:Then it looks something like this.
I enjoyed walking along it, it's a pleasant sandy strip lined with pine trees. On reaching the far end I took a cute little chair lift up to the viewing area. After the blood finally returned to my head I climbed further up the hill to a nice old temple. Outside the temple is this bell. It has quite the history, when the bell was cast a baby fell into the molten metal. The first time the bell was rung those listening claimed to hear the baby calling for its mother. It hasn't been rung since!
I took a boat back across the water and was amused to watch the Japanese tourists feeding the seagulls (and one hawk) which were following the boat. The would throw chips in the air and the birds would catch them.

I then moved on to Matsue, which is an attractive city on a large lake. Spent the night there and then went to see the shrine at Izumo Taisha, one of the most important ones in Japan. The original supposedly built by the Sun Goddess Amaterasu. Hanging outside is an enormous rope twist. If you throw a coin and it sticks you will have good luck. I got one on my second try. :)

Finally I visited the castle at Matsue. It is one of the few original ones left and is very interesting. I was lucky enough to be offered a free English tour and as there was only me I felt like quite the VIP.

Thursday, 22 March 2007

More Mountain Musings

Since Wednesday was a national holiday Yuka and I decided to do some exploring. We opted for Mt Koya, which is between Osaka and Wakayama. Koya-san is very famous as a holy mountain and it has many temples and shrines at the top, as well as a huge cemetery. The cemetery is fascinating as many companies have their corporate tombs there so that you can enjoy your eternal rest in the bosom of your company, how sweet! Many of them even have statuary to depict what it is that the company does, UCC Coffee has a coffee cup but this one was my favourite, you will never guess what they build... Also many of the tombs have little letter boxes so that you can post your business card in to let your former colleagues know that you dropped by! The mountain is naturally very popular with pilgrims and they take tours with guides in traditional pilgrim dress and are often dressed alike themselves.
Upon leaving the cemetery we went to the Kongobu-ji monastery. The main complex on the mountain. There I saw my first real zen garden...
And some amazing old screen paintings from the late sixteenth century.
Finally we visited the Garan which was garish to say the least. Some really love old buildings surrounding it though.

Haiku Holiday

I spent the weekend on Shikoku Island, Japan's fourth largest. I visited the city of Matsuyama which is famous for two things, the Dogo Onsen, Japan's oldest, and as the birthplace of Masaoka Shiki a haiku poet. To commemorate him there are these cute little haiku post boxes all over the place. So if the spirit moves you you can compose your own and submit it. If it is deemed worthy you are sent a gift. Figured you probably have to do it in Japanese though. This is the Dogo Onsen. It is Japan's oldest. I decided that since it was such a special one I should get over my OC complex and give it a go. I went for the cheapest option, the "Hot Water of the Gods" bath. I was the only foreigner in there and I think I can safely say that I have never felt so enormous or so pale. The bath itself was quite enjoyable but very hot so I had to keep getting out to perch on the side for a few minutes. Also I have to say I got bored quite quickly so probably only stayed in around 15 minutes. Still it was an experience and I have done it now.
I also hiked up a short hill to see Matsuyama castle. I didn't bother going inside as there's not a whole lot in there but it was a nice walk and a reasonable view over the city.

Tuesday, 13 March 2007

Walking in a winter monkeyland

As you can see by the snow, this past weekend I headed for the highlands. I went to visit the Japanese Alps and boy was I glad that I had my thermals. While the weather in Kak has not exactly got warm it is certainly a lot better than that in Nagano and Yudanaka. I was staying in Nagano in youth hostel that is connected to the big temple there. It was a really nice experience, I had a tatami room all to myself and in the morning I went to the morning service, which was brilliantly atmospheric. After I had had my fill of chanting, drum-beating monks, I went into the Okaidan, a pitch-black tunnel that runs under the alter. I managed to locate the 'key to paradise' down there so am now assured of my eternal reward.

Then I made my way to Yudanaka where there is a monkey onsen! It took about 30 minutes to walk from the bus stop to the monkey park and although it was a bit cold it was very beautiful walking through the snow. Here I am enjoying the sub-Arctic temperatures.

The biggest monkeys just sit around and let the smaller ones groom them but most of them behave like kids in a swimming pool, swimming and fighting and dunking one another.
This little fellow was particularly cute, think he was checking to see if the warm water had given him wrinkles!
Before leaving the area near the monkey park I went into the Roman Art Museum (mostly to get warm) where I got talking to the lady working behind the front desk. She was nice enough to drive me to the station in Yudanaka. March the 3rd is the Doll festival in Japan and after attempting to photograph several displays through glass finally there in the station there was a display set out in the entrance. The two dolls at the top are the emperor and empress and then those below are their ladies in waiting, knights etc.